On a recent visit to Nabura I enjoyed the best plate of sashimi I have ever eaten. Head chef Shogo Takeda uses his yanagiba like a conductor uses his baton and whips a variety of fish into a crescendo of flavour, texture, colour and mouthfeel.

He exploits the strong points of each fish and creates a balanced dish that is worth crossing town for, even in peak hour. Lets not get hung up on just the sashimi. Each dish individually is well worth another visit.

So what makes a great chef tick? Obviously it’s all about knives and shoes.